Tuesday, March 13, 2012

The Devil Made Me Do It

Tuesday, March 13, 2012
Sau Voi Corp., 101-105 Lafayette Street, looks like a candy store or a small variety store as you approach. Signs outside advertise the lottery, cigarettes and other miscellany. If you look carefully, you can spot mention of Vietnamese sandwiches, and that’s what this shop is famous for. http://www.nytimes.com/2003/08/22/nyregion/chinatown-journal-great-sandwiches-cheap-but-please-buy-something-else.html?scp=1&sq=sau%20voi%20sandwich&st=cse. One half of this small space is devoted to preparing Vietnamese sandwiches, appetizers and drinks. For only the second time in this (ad)venture, I had to buy food to be taken out, because there was no seating of any kind available. So, I ordered a Banh Mi Pate Cha, turkey, paté, cucumber slivers and shredded carrots on a warm baguette, with a schmear of mayo (although they may have called it something else). I then walked three blocks to a bench across from the courthouse on this lovely day and ate my tasty sandwich and dribbled liquid down the front of my suede jacket.

Film crews are almost a daily occurrence around the courthouse. Today, I saw a bunch of trucks and crew members working on the pilot episode for a prospective television series entitled “666 Park Avenue.” This immediately reminded me of Ronald Reagan. When the Reagans left the White House in 1989, some rich friends (did they have any others?) purchased a house for them in Bel Air, the ritziest part of the City of Los Angeles; Beverly Hills is its own city within the County of Los Angeles. The address was originally 666 St. Cloud Road, but, as you are well aware, the number 666 is the number of the beast identified in the Book of Revelation 13:17-18 (not normally taught in the Yeshiva of Flatbush). It has been further interpreted as the symbol for the Anti-Christ or the Devil herself. Wikipedia even supplies a name for the fear of this number –
hexakosioihexekontahexaphobia. Well, the God-fearing, or maybe the Devil-fearing, dwellers on St. Cloud Road stood up and did the Right Thing, changing the address to 668 St. Cloud Road.

Obviously, I wasn't the only one who noticed this. Calvin Trillin also commented at the time, "OK, except now where's the Devil supposed to live?"

Wednesday, March 14, 2012
It was a remarkably nice day, dry sunny, temperature in the high 60s. Columbus Park was packed with every allowable activity in full swing, the card players and the Xiangqi players taking every available table at the northern end. Casual soccer and football games occupied the field; children from one or two schools ran all over the playground; serious urban playground basketball games were underway at the newly-rebuilt southern end. And, in a rare display of solidarity, four Chinese two-string fiddle (Erhu) players, who are usually dispersed over different corners of the park, gathered together with one banjo player and a (male) singer at the northeastern corner, just inside the entrance at the corner of Mulberry Street and Bayard Street. The banjo seems like an unusual instrument for a Chinese musician, who, I would guess, never heard of Pete Seeger or Earl Scruggs. Indeed, the Chinese banjo player seemed to have only heard the beat of a different drummer, because his playing had no musical connection to any of the five others. The singer was also interesting. He was not just some random stroller who stopped by for a few choruses of the Chinese version of Melancholy Baby. He came equipped with a headset microphone attached to an amplifier and speaker hanging from his belt. While I admired the intensity of all six musicians, it reminded me that a section of a new high-speed railroad in China collapsed on Friday even after it had undergone test runs.

The Roti Canai ($3.25), a cross between naan and a crepe with a peanut dipping sauce containing one chunk of brisket, was wonderful, as it has been in the past (July 30, 2010), and no more expensive, at New Malaysia Restaurant, 46-48 Bowery Street, Chinatown Arcade # 28.

Thursday, March 15, 2012
With the temperature in the mid 40s and a thick cloud cover, Columbus Park was not densely covered with people. The absence of some pseudo-jocks was no surprise, but what got into the Chinese musicians? Today, one fiddler accompanied one woman singing where six musicians gathered yesterday. About 50 yards away, another fiddler (Erhuist?) played along with a woman toting the same sort of amplifier/speaker rig I saw yesterday, making her voice heard a long way off. There was no sign of the other two fiddlers and the banjo player. I really don't connect the weather to this scaling down of the entertainment. Pardon me, but I think they might have listened to themselves yesterday.

Tonight, when I got off the subway and headed for Fairway, I saw a handful of large trucks loaded with movie-making equipment on 73rd Street, just west of Broadway. Naturally curious, I asked a grip, the term applied to anyone in the film industry who has not been on the cover of People Magazine, what work was in process. Are you surprised that it was “666 Park Avenue”? I devoted some time to considering the implications of this appearance. Has the Devil moved to the upper West Side? Is she merely visiting? Will we have to start paying retail in order to build up our spiritual reserves so that we avoid eternal damnation?

Friday, March 16, 2012
Scrutiny of the neighborhood surrounding Palazzo di Gotthelf and the area around the courthouse turned up no sign of the Beast. Has she been driven off by the bleeding-heart liberalism of the upper West Side, or the forgive-and-forget sentimentality of Manhattan juries? Or, am I too quick to cast my fears aside? Stay tuned.

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Jews to the Moon

Monday, March 5, 2012
New Fresco Tortillas III/Chinese Restaurant, 63 Reade Street, is an example of what I wrote about on May 5, 2011, the cross-pollination of cuisines in New York, specifically Mexican-Chinese. See also http://www.nytimes.com/1997/02/02/nyregion/where-east-meets-tex-mex.html. The menu gives about equal space to each. I ordered Chinese, of necessity, chicken with black bean sauce ($4.99), which came with white rice. The place is dreary, a square room with a handful of tables, most orders for take-out. The food was prepared to order, with pea pods, celery and mushrooms with thin pieces of white meat chicken in a bland sauce. This food should be served near a high school. I’ll return, but only to try the Mexican. By the way, as with the other Mexican-Chinese restaurants, all the help are Chinese.

Tuesday, March 6, 2012
This evening, at the Skirball Center for Adult Jewish Learning, Professor Deborah Lipstadt spoke thoughtfully on the role of the United States government and US Jewish leadership in (not) saving the Jews of Europe before and during WWII. She criticized the positions of both those who insist that millions of Jews could have been saved/rescued by relatively slight efforts by the US government and American Jewish leadership, and those, mostly Franklin D. Roosevelt hagiographers, such as Arthur M. Schlesinger, Jr., who claim that all was done that could have been done.

I do not see this as one seamless issue. After all, it covers 12 years, several continents, dozens of countries and regimes, and millions of people. Instead, I suggest that it breaks down into three time periods, containing both discrete and common elements: I - 1933 to 1939, the rise of Naziism; II - 1939-1944, the height of Naziism; 1944 - 1945, the fall of Naziism. The opportunities and possibilities of saving European Jews were dramatically different in each period. Please forgive the staccato fashion in which I present my thoughts.

I - The rise of Naziism was greeted with disbelief in much of Europe and the US. Hitler’s behavior and ideas were seen as too bizarre to really succeed in such an advanced, civilized country as Germany. Until 1939, only Germany and Austria were under Nazi rule and their Jews were probably the most assimilated, cultured and educated jews in Europe, and, thus, while repelled and victimized by state-sponsored anti-Semitism, they usually felt strong ties to their nation, making it unlikely for them to move away. Eastern European Jews, from Russia, Poland, the Ukraine and the Baltic area, were generally less cosmopolitan, more tribal, and less educated than German/Austrian Jews, as well as those from France and the Low Countries. Many Eastern European Jews held strong traditional ties to their rabbis who did not perceive a threat or dismissed it. European Jews, long exposed to anti-Semitism, may have not recognized Naziism as a greater threat than that which preceded it.

The US long harbored xenophobic attitudes, but apparently in response to the mass immigration of Eastern European Jews in the first decades of the Twentieth Century, anti-Semitism strongly increased. Even if ethnic prejudice were absent, many Americans were not ready to accept an inflow of foreigners while unemployment plagued the decade. Henry Ford published the Dearborn Independent from 1920 to 1927, constantly promoting anti-Semitism along with anti-labor, anti-liquor and anti-immigrant views. Father Charles Coughlin, a Roman Catholic priest based in Royal Oaks, Michigan, had a weekly national radio broadcast, with an estimated audience of 30 million or more, during the 1930s. In 1934, after beginning as a supporter of Roosevelt and the New Deal, Coughlin espoused a pseudo-populist program that became overtly anti-Semitic. As late as 1938, his broadcasts were being carried by WMCA (later home to Barry Gray, Murray the K, Scott Muni and the “Good Guys”) and WINS in New York City. When Father Coughlin rationalized Kristallnacht as “Jewish persecution only followed after Christians first were persecuted [in the Soviet Union],” he fell into decline, but he continued broadcasting until September 1940 and publishing his newspaper Social Justice until May 1942.

Jewish immigrants, even fleeing Naziism, were not provided an open door to the US. Cf. the voyage of the St. Louis, a German transatlantic liner that sailed from Hamburg on May 13, 1939, with 937 passengers, almost all Jews from Germany and Austria. After the Jewish passengers were denied entry into Cuba and the US, in spite of pending US visa applications, it eventually returned them to Antwerp on June 6, 1939. At one point, the ship reputedly sailed close enough to the Florida coastline that passengers could see the lights of Miami. 288 Jewish passengers were fortunate enough to be allowed to enter Great Britain, and all but one, killed in an air raid, survived the war. Of the 640 passengers who returned to the European continent, 87 left before Germany invaded; 254 died in the Holocaust, almost exactly divided among France, Belgium and Holland; and 278 survived.

Even where anti-Semitism did not guide our immigration policies, the quota restrictions in the Immigration Bill of 1924, which limited immigration to 2% of the number of people from that country who were already living in the US in 1890, kept out Jews and most others without ancestors in or around the British Isles. When a bill was introduced in Congress in 1939 to allow 20,000 German Jewish children into the US, outside the established quotas, it died in committee. An oft-repeated anecdote about the bill concerns Mrs. James Houghteling, wife of the commissioner of immigration and Roosevelt’s cousin. She was reputedly heard to say, at a cocktail party, “that 20,000 [Jewish] children would all too soon grow up into 20,000 ugly adults.” At the same time, Great Britain conducted the Kindertransport program, which brought 10,000 German Jewish children into the country.

In sum, psychology, ideology, prejudice, law and inertia kept Europe's Jews generally in harm's way. As the period proceeded and Nazi anti-Semitism turned increasingly violent, US law and prejudice translated into a failure of will that trapped German and Austrian Jews, even as the peril became fully exposed.

II - During the height of Naziism, Germany occupied or controlled almost all of Western Europe and a large portion of Eastern Europe, deep into Russia. The Wannsee Conference in January 1942 set the official policy of deporting Jews from Western Europe to Eastern Europe, using the fit ones for harsh labor. The minutes never mentioned killing Jews, but Reinhard Heydrich, newly-appointed as chief executor of the Final Solution to the Jewish Question, spoke of the fate of the “possible final remnant [which] will, since it will undoubtedly consist of the most resistant portion, have to be treated accordingly, because it is the product of natural selection and would, if released, act as the seed of a new Jewish revival.”

Gas chambers in concentration camps became fully operational in January 1942. Until then, machine-gunning was the typical method for wholesale killing of Jews in Eastern Europe which they densely populated, although mobile gas vans were used in Poland in late 1941 on Gypsies as well as Jews. On June 30, 1942, the New York Times, repeating information from a London newspaper, reported that over 1 million Jews had already been killed by the Nazis.

The numbers grew, of course, as the Nazis expanded their control and domination over Europe. The Red Army was always situated in Europe, but it was pushed far back to Moscow as the Germans advanced over 1,000 miles eastward from home. By late 1943, Russia stopped the advance of the Nazis and began pushing back. US and British troops did not set foot on the continent until September 3, 1943 when they invaded the toe of Italy. They arrived in Rome on June 4, 1944, only two days before the massive invasion at Normandy. These successes were too late for most European Jews. Der Stürmer, the Nazi propaganda paper, wrote on November 4, 1943: “It is actually true that the Jews have, so to speak, disappeared from Europe and that the Jewish ‘Reservoir of the East’ from which the Jewish pestilence has for centuries beset the peoples of Europe has ceased to exist.” With the exception of Hungary, this was undoubtedly true.

To make it simple, let’s suppose that Hitler announced on January 1, 1942, when most European Jews remained alive, that they were free to leave; German troops and police would not interfere or impede their free movement for ________________(pick a time period). Where would they go and how would they get there? With the exception of the generous Swedes who accepted about 7,200 Danish Jews fleeing by boat in October 1943, there was not an inch of benign territory in Europe. What would it take to move millions of Jews to coast lines where they could depart for where? How about the Moon? Great Britain, in spite of a long history of anti-Semitism, was far more welcoming to Jews than the US before the start of the war. It accepted about 90,000 Jews until 1938, when it halted such immigration, and 10,000 Jewish children in the Kindertransport program after Kristallnacht. However, it literally fought to keep Jews out of Palestine from 1939 to 1948. Additionally, at the start of the war, the British interned 74,000 German, Austrian and Italian citizens, many Jewish and mostly refugees from Naziism and Fascism, as enemy aliens. Fortunately, most were released within six months.

Where was hope? I believe that, as the Roosevelt champions insist, the only hope for European Jews during the height of Nazi power was an Allied victory over the Nazis which would bring the slaughter to an end. Civilian thoughts, deeds, words and prayers (in any language) were useless, although one voice that might have made a difference remained silent in the Vatican.

III – What I’ve always found remarkable about the closing days of the war in Europe is how, even as Soviet troops moved westward and US-led troops moved eastward into Germany, the Nazis willingly committed so much human and material resources to the destruction of the Jews. By D-Day, June 6, 1944, most of Eastern European Jewry was gone. Western European Jewish communities were fragmented, some heavily decimated, others starved, impoverished, displaced. Only Hungarian Jews, estimated at about 750,000, including those in nearby Hungarian-ruled areas, remained as a viable community as a result of the détente between Hitler and Admiral Horthy, the right-wing regent of Hungary. When the Germans invaded Hungary on March 19, 1944, the repression and hardships of the anti-Semitic Horthy regime was replaced by the sadistic cruelty of the Nazis.

Deportations from Hungary began in May 1944, originally from outlying areas. According to Martin Gilbert, the prolific British historian, more than 250,000 Hungarian Jews were deported to Auschwitz by June 2, 1944. About the same time, authoritative information about the character and operation of Auschwitz was received, or finally acknowledged by US policymakers. Rescue of the hundreds of thousands of Hungarian Jews in, on the way to or soon to be sent to Auschwitz was impossible, for the same logistical reasons that controlled the previous historic period when Naziism reached its peak. However, many of these Jews might have been saved from immediate extermination had the camp, or at least the rail lines leading to it, been destroyed, even at the cost of lives by the bombing. Auschwitz, actually a large complex of three camps, was bordered by important industrial facilities including oil refineries, positioned to take advantage of slave labor. Bombing of these facilities began as early as April 1944 by British and American air forces, but the nature of the adjacent camps was apparently unknown to military planners that early.

However, in June 1944, American Jewish leaders, certain of the character of Auschwitz, unsuccessfully appealed to the US War Department to bomb the rail lines. Assistant Secretary of War John McCloy, later a fixture in American foreign policy-making, killed the request, harkening back to a decision by the US Air Force earlier in the year not to bomb anything for the purposes of rescuing victims of enemy oppression, but to concentrate on military targets. Gilbert maintains that Winston Churchill was an active proponent of bombing Auschwitz, only to see his enthusiasm vitiated by British civil servants. When persistent Jewish voices continued to call for bombing Auschwitz over the next several months, McCloy and members of the British Foreign Office deflected the idea. There was ambiguity among world Jewish leaders, as well. The Jewish Agency, the precursor of the government of Israel, chaired by David Ben Gurion, decided on June 11, 1944 to not ask the Allies to bomb places where there were Jews, specifically referencing Auschwitz. But, one month later, it called for such bombing because it would refute Nazi propaganda that the Allies did not object to the murder of Jews, it would recognize the fact of mass extermination, it would raise the threat of reprisals against Nazi murderers, and it might arouse internal pressure against continuing the killing of Jews.

In the end, most sources agree that about 450,000 Hungarian Jews were killed, a majority probably by the end of the Summer of 1944 at Auschwitz. By then, Allied bombers were crossing the skies of Poland regularly on bombing runs to a variety of military targets, some at or near Auschwitz. However, the camp or its feeder rail lines were never deemed a worthy target, although that would have disrupted the Nazis' killing routine and kept some Jews alive until the arrival of Soviet troops who got to the suburbs of Budapest in early November 1944. Auschwitz itself was liberated by the Red Army on January 27, 1945. In anticipation of the fall of Auschwitz, the Nazis marched nearly 60,000 mostly Jewish prisoners away to the west. The cold weather, starvation, exposure and shootings are estimated to have killed more than 15,000 of these prisoners. Enough was never enough, it seems, to the Nazis where Jews were concerned.

Anti-Semitism among some key American and British policymakers, a paucity of information for others, combined with some inconsistency by leading Jewish figures probably cost tens of thousands of lives at this late stage of the war, the last chance to save Jews in any number. Logistics were not the primary obstacle to safety for these remaining Jews, as they had been for the Jews of 1939-1944. These Hungarian Jews merely needed to be left alone, kept out of the concentration camps. With the progress of the Red Army to the East, the American and British forces into France and Italy, every day staying alive accelerated the prospect of surviving the war. In Gilbert's book Auschwitz and the Allies, he quotes several former Jewish concentration camp prisoners' willingness to die by Allied bombings because of the likelihood that Nazi war efforts would also suffer as Jewish lives were lost.

Wednesday, March 7, 2012
On August 11, 2010, I went to Shanghai Asian Manor, 21 Mott Street, and found that the “scallion pancake was near-perfect.” The price has gone up 25¢ to $2.50, but it is still wonderful today.

Thursday, March 8, 2012
I have eaten in Pakistan Tea House, 176 Church Street, more often than any other restaurant in the last 10 years even though I haven’t been in there for over two years. While I was working in the small courthouse at 71Thomas Street for more than seven years, I ate at Pakistan Tea House almost weekly. Until now, though, I’ve kept it off my list. Today, I ventured to across town and ate lunch there. I had what was my usual choice, chicken biryani with a naan, Diet Pepsi chaser ($11). I think this is a one dollar increase. The portion was enormous, which only served to highlight the scarcity of chicken in the dish, five small pieces, two mostly bone. It all tasted good, however, and I received a friendly greeting from one woman behind the counter who knows that I am not a nuclear weapons inspector.

Friday, March 2, 2012

Sadie Who?

Monday, February 27, 2012
At least I serve to connect some of you to the New York Times. Yesterday’s paper had a feature article on black students at Stuyvesant High School, a subject I explored not too long ago. Read it at http://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/26/education/black-at-stuyvesant-high-one-girls-experience.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1&sq=stuyvesant&st=cse&scp=1. Black enrollment peaked in 1975 when black students made up 12 percent of the school’s population, or 303 of the school’s then 2,536 students. In 1980, there were 212 black students; in 1990, 147; in 2000, 109; in 2005, 66; and today 40 out of 3,295 students. In 1970, Asian (Chinese) students were 6% of the student body surging to 72.5% today. Which of these situations is more remarkable?
Tanxi Wang Fu Zhou Cuisine Inc., 13B Eldridge Street, is a busy joint. Long and narrow, about 40 chairs face two ledges running opposite each other down the length of the restaurant, and almost every one was taken with rapid turnover. The one English version of the menu is posted on the wall and the choices are limited. I had fish ball soup ($2 small) and noodles with peanut sauce ($2). There were seven 1" fish balls in a mild broth. The ground fish, with a texture akin to a quenelle, was wrapped around a meat or darker fish center. The flat egg noodles might have been cold sesame noodles if they were cold, not hot, but they were hot so not. It amounted to a lot of good food for a little money.

Tuesday, February 28, 2012
A story I missed when it first appeared is at http://www.gelderlander.nl/nieuws/algemeen/economie/10007041/KLM-kies-je-stoelgenoot-op-basis-van-Twitterprofiel.ece. Of course, my Dutch is rusty and it took awhile for me to understand KLM’s new policy which will allow airplane seat selection to incorporate profile information about possible co-passengers from social networks. I’m already crafting some profiles for myself to use on different flight segments to maximize my chances to be left in splendid isolation:
New York to Chicago - Flatulent senior citizen.
New York to Los Angeles - Newly-crowned teenage baton-twirling champion.
New York to London - Life insurance salesman under quota.
New York to Tokyo - Newt Gingrich.

Wednesday, February 29, 2012
How old do you have to be to know who is Sadie Hawkins?

Thursday, March 1, 2012
Canal Best Restaurant, 266 Canal Street, is a joint I would have sworn I had gone to before. Located just west of Broadway, it’s in a heavily-trafficked area, but I had missed it in the last two years. It’s medium-small sized, 8 rectangular tables for 4 and 8 round tables for 8-10 people. Just about every table was partially occupied, mostly by Chinese, although many tourists were in constant movement outside along Canal Street. It has a big menu, with few surprises. Eighty dishes are offered for lunch, ranging from $5 to $6.95, with soup. Another 60 items included noodles and rice dishes. After all that, I ordered shredded duck chow fun ($6.95), which was not actually on the menu, but presented no problem in light of the listing of shredded duck with other noodles, and chow fun with other meats. The portion was not as heaping as I might have wished, but it was good, not great. The noodles did not manage to double up on themselves as happens in the greatest of chow funs. I wonder how they do that?

Friday, March 2, 2012
Solidifying our role as the upper West Side’s Power Couple, America’s Favorite Epidemiologist and I purchased smartyphones this past weekend. While their possible uses seem endless with all the apps available from technophiles dwelling in ill-ventilated spaces, we are making some progress in joining the Wired Generation. I note this for your benefit since my smartyphone combines telephone numbers, e-mail addresses and web sites into one contact list, all selected by a gentle touch of the screen. However, age, drink, weariness, distraction, sleep deprivation, sensory overload or boredom might occasionally distort the accuracy of my selection causing me to ring you up in the middle of the night when I was merely trying to look up the population of Bolivia. I ask your temporary tolerance of my learning curve.

Friday, February 24, 2012

Supreme Court Justice Woody Allen

Monday, February 20, 2012
Presidents Day or is it Presidents’ Day?

Last night we dined at the Goldfarbs to celebrate several famous Americans. The meal not only displayed Connie’s outstanding talent in the kitchen, it reflected her Syrian heritage. The menu, which David typically prints for guests, was Yebra, L’akhma Ajeen, Baba Ghanooj, Kiber fi Senieh, Mechshi and cherry pie to return us to the here and now. So, what exactly did we eat? Yebra = meat and rice-stuffed grape leaves; L’akhma Ajeen = flat disc (maybe a small pita) with a dollop of meat on top; Baba Ghanooj = mashed eggplant; Kiber fi Senieh = a pie filled with bulgur (grain) and ground meat; and Mechshi = a stuffed tomato. All that was missing was desert sand.

Tuesday, February 21, 2012
Today is Mardi Gras and I imagine that my extensive network of New Orleans relatives are frolicking in the streets, ingesting potent beverages and, possibly, taking liberties with strangers. On the whole, I think I’d rather be here.

Happy Express Café, 6 Allen Street, is a little joint in a part of Chinatown that still awaits development. It has 12 two-person tables in a floor space about 1/3 taken by a counter fronting a cooking area. The menu is very limited with few things of interest, but I had chicken with rice ($3.75) and was pleased that it turned out be a good large snack. About half the chairs were occupied by Chinese people limited to plastic forks as I was. I think most of them were lingering to wait for one of the numerous cheap busses that come and go from this part of Chinatown to cities throughout the Northeast at very low fares.

Wednesday, February 22, 2012
Yi Zhang Fish Ball Inc., 9 Eldridge Street, is new, neat and clean. Most of the rectangular floor space is empty because seating is only provided along two long counters running down opposite walls of the restaurant, with the ordering and preparation space at the rear. When I walked in, a young woman employee asked me quizzically, "Eat here?" "Of course," I replied heartily and explained that I had grown big and strong by eating almost anywhere. To simplify communication in this English-free zone, I pointed to the bowl a nearby customer was stooped over. I got what they called, I learned later, dumpling soup ($3), a tasty version of wonton soup. It contained 10 one-inch round dumplings with a thick wrapper around a dollop (twice in one week) of meat with a tinge of spice. When I asked for a menu on the way out, since none appeared or could be seen during my visit, the six-year old girl helping her mother at the cash register told me next time. By the way, Yi Zhang Fish Ball should not be confused with Young City Fish Balls just up the block at 21 Eldridge Street (January 25, 2011).

Thursday, February 23, 2012
I want to take this rare moment to acknowledge a misapprehension of mine. For several months last year, I groused about the delay in completing the renovation of Columbus Park, particularly the playground at its southern tip. I noted that after tearing up the existing surface in August, no activity was conducted for many weeks wasting summer playtime. Finally, the area, which featured three basketball half-courts, reopened in late October in time for wind, rain and cold. Well, how could I have predicted the rise of Jeremy Lin and the uncharacteristically warm weather this winter; it was 61 degrees at lunchtime today, high of 57 yesterday. The result is that the three basketball courts are humming with activity. Maybe better late than never.

Speaking of miscues, I returned to New York Foo Chow Restaurant, 68 East Broadway (May 24, 2010) without reading my previous comments. I ordered oxtail with mei fun ($6) from the Foo Chow side of the menu. However, I received ox tail soup with mei fun; the soup was silent on the menu. I would have enjoyed it more if it was really winter outside.

Friday, February 24, 2012
Chilly and damp enough to keep me from wandering, although I've spotted one or two new (to me) joints on Eldridge Street that I'll aim for next week.

Last night, we watched Midnight in Paris on a DVD borrowed from the New York Public Library. It is written and directed by Woody Allen and, even though he does not appear on the screen, his mentality and voice permeates the movie, which I enjoyed. So, I thought of Antonin Scalia whose mentality and voice permeate his legal opinions on the United States Supreme Court, which I don't enjoy. It's not only Scalia's often acerbic arguments that distinguish his writing, but how they reflect his biography. He is a devout Roman Catholic who regularly attends a Tridentine Latin mass (thought to have been obsolesced by the Second Vatican Council), was brought into government by Richard Nixon, appointed to the Supreme Court by Ronald Reagan, and hangs with Dick Cheney. While not my cup of tea, all of that might be okay if Scalia's judicial opinions didn't mimic his personal and political predilections (although I'll note below one possible deviation from the script). A Scalia opinion is easily recognized not just by its vocabulary or even its resolution of the matter at hand. A Scalia opinion reflects a world view that seems free of doubt or caution in understanding human affairs. Only on capital punishment does the church-goer go away from most of his church's contemporary teaching -- Pope John Paul II, January 27, 1999 in St. Louis, MO, "I renew the appeal I made most recently at Christmas for a consensus to end the death penalty, which is both cruel and unnecessary." In Thompson v. Oklahoma (1988), Scalia dissented from the Court’s ruling that the death penalty could not be applied to those aged 15 at the time of the offense, and the following year authored the Court’s opinion in Stanford v. Kentucky sustaining the death penalty for those who killed at age 16. Don’t worry, the Pope’s words in 1999 had no effect on Scalia in this regard. Cf. Atkins v. Virginia (2002). In German, verbissener means dogged, grim, stern. In Yiddish, we Jews use the variant farbissener meaning an angry, bitter, vocal person. Scalia anyone?

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

It's a Big Number

Monday, February 13, 2012
The court system, along with other New York State agencies, still celebrates Lincoln’s Birthday apart from President's Day, so we had the day off. Thus, I got to spend the lunch hour in Dr. David B.’s office getting reassured that I didn't have pneumonia, Avian flu or Asian flu, that the cough and nasal congestion I brought back from Vietnam was merely a bronchial infection that apparently will not lay waste to half the population of New York City. We can breathe easily now, well soon at least after the prescribed medication has time to do its job.

Medication is not my excuse for a stupid oversight yesterday. I simply forgot that I had two tickets for the Rangers-Capitals game. Instead, I stayed home and watched it on television (Rangers 3-2). This was an expensive failure of my non-electronic diary-keeping.

Tuesday, February 14, 2012
I had lunch with an alternate Valentine, Marty the Super Clerk at 71 Thomas Street, because I had theater tickets to deliver to him. We went, as we usually do, to Pecan Fine Foods, 130 Franklin Street, an informal café that has excellent soups and interesting sandwiches. I began my quest for more and more Chinese food when I left 71 Thomas Street just over two years ago to move to 60 Centre Street, immediately adjacent to Chinatown. However, ignoring Little Italy as much of it should be, there is no even modestly-passable non-Asian food around here. So, it’s Tribeca for Pecan, Zucker’s Bagels & Smoked Fish, Landmarc, Tribeca Grill and Blaue Gans for a lunch without chopsticks.

Wednesday, February 15, 2012
I must admit that I have been partially seduced by the Jeremy Lin phenomenon, the emergence from nowhere of an Asian-American Harvard graduate into the leader of a resurgent New York Knicks basketball team. Last night was a test for me. The New York Rangers were skating against the Boston Bruins in Boston, the team immediately trailing them in the standings. Start time for the Ranger game and the Knicks game from Toronto was 7 PM. So, I found myself switching channels with the ebb and flow of the action in the respective games, instead of remaining glued to the Ranger game (3-0 victory).

Unfortunately, Lin’s success has already evoked the American disease* of racism. Lin, a member of a once-persecuted minority (Chinese were barred by Federal law from becoming US citizens from 1790 until 1943), is being viewed by some whites and some blacks as the adopted Great White Hope, a tonic for the “tattooed thugs” of the NBA. See http://espn.go.com/new-york/nba/story/_/id/7572690/floyd-mayweather-says-new-york-knicks-jeremy-lin-spotlight-race-not-play.
I’m not sure that I am free from this prejudice, although I believe that my visceral reaction is primarily towards what is on the skin, rather than its color. On the other hand, many folks of many colors believe that Lin was ignored in college recruiting, the professional draft and utilization in the pros because he met the wrong stereotype.

Jing Star Restaurant, 27-29 Division Street, is a large restaurant on a busy street, yet I’ve missed it until now. It features dim sum at lunch, but was no more than 1/3 full in contrast to typically busy competitors, such as Golden Unicorn, 18 East Broadway, Jing Fong, 20 Elizabeth Street, and 88 Palace, 88 East Broadway. Only two women pushed carts around the floor, so I might have seen only 8-10 different items. I chose shu mei (4), shrimp dumplings (4), baked pork buns (3) and soft, round, sweet dough with a chopped meat stuffing (3). With a pot of jasmine tea, the bill was $8.50. The low energy atmosphere would keep me away in the future, although the food was good. For very good dim sum in a quiet setting, usually a contradiction in terms, I would suggest Dim Sum Go Go (primus inter pares), 5 East Broadway, or New Mandarin Court, 61 Mott Street. Although relatively quiet, neither feels tired.

* Upon reflection, I think racism has universal appeal, although the victims may vary. Generally, the darker suffer at the hands of the lighter, but I’m sure that we can find exceptions to that. In Cambodia, our lovely guide, a 33-year old married woman with two children, was wearing a long-sleeved turtleneck knit under a long-sleeved shirt when the temperature was around 90 and the humidity near 70, a beastly combination. She acknowledged that she was trying to ward off color, not cancer. I discussed this generally on July 26, 2010 (The Umbrellas of Chinatown). In sum, Lin's rapid rise has demonstrated white/black racism, black/white racism, black/yellow racism, and white/yellow racism. Remember what Tom Lehrer said?

Thursday, February 16, 2012
So the bakery where I ordered and paid for a birthday cake for Saturday on Tuesday closed its doors on Wednesday. Fortunately, I learned this early enough on Thursday to place another order, for more than twice as much, at another bakery. This cake is especially important because it celebrates three members of the delightful Siegel family along with you-know-who.

Friday, February 17, 2012
Michael Jordan is another Super Star born in Brooklyn on this date.

Thursday, February 9, 2012

Super Blue

Tuesday, February 7, 2012
Four years ago, when the New York Giants last won the Super Bowl, I was working at 26 Broadway, precisely on the congratulatory parade route that will be used again today. In fact, my office overlooked lower Broadway and I could view the busses arriving with players and their families to climb onto the floats to carry them to City Hall. That office was the best (most comfortable, spacious, furnished, view) I’ve ever had in my working life, although the job itself left a lot to be desired. This morning, as I walked from the subway, I saw hundreds of fans heading to good vantage points for the festivities. Although the courthouse is four short blocks from City Hall, I won’t attend the celebration which would entail crowding through paths narrower than the aisles of Fairway before the recent renovations. The game itself Sunday night was a celebration even though Boaz had to go to sleep around 8 PM and was not around for the finish. The Giants victory was especially important to him because all the other kids in his pre-school (outside Boston) wore Patriots gear to school at the urging of the teachers on Friday, his birthday and the anniversary of the previous Giants Super Bowl win over the Patriots. Fortunately, his wise father dressed him in a bright blue Giants T-shirt for the day and he held his own.

Surprise, surprise! When I went out to lunch around noon, I found Foley Square, the area in front of the courthouse, packed with people, because the parade route was altered to accommodate more spectators. Instead of turning off Broadway at City Hall, the parade continued several more blocks to Worth Street, went over one block and then south to merge with Centre Street back to City Hall. With this unexpected sense of participation, I walked over to Wo Hop, 17 Mott Street downstairs, just ahead of thousands of people who waited for the end of the parade a few minutes after I left. Although I had to share a table with a lawyer reading Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close by Jonathan Safran Foer, I was seated almost immediately. However, when I left, not lingering over an old crossword I had brought for company, the line to get in was up the stairs and up the block for a couple of storefronts. Apparently, many other restaurants were deservedly doing as well.

In my e-inbox this morning:
“Thank you for sending us the details of your recent record attempt for ‘Most lunches in New York’s Chinatown.’ We are afraid to say that we are unable to accept this as a Guinness World Record. Guinness World Records has absolute discretion as to which record applications are accepted and our decision is final. Guinness World Records may at its discretion and for whatever reason identify some records as either no longer monitored by Guinness World Records or no longer viable. As your record application has not been accepted, Guinness World Records is in no way associated with the activity relating to your record proposal and we in no way endorse this activity. If you choose to proceed with this activity then this is will be of your own volition and at your own risk.”

Risk-taker that I am, I will proceed, not for the glory, but for the sake of my fellow Americans who may need to be reminded, as they contemplate a choice among Newt Gingrich, Ron Paul, Mitt Romney and Rick Santorum, that there will always be a tomorrow.

Wednesday, February 8, 2012
Big Wong Restaurant, 67 Mott Street, is the favored destination of many seeking classic Chinatown Chinese food. I’ve had mixed results on prior visits (March 17, 2010, August 24, 2010, October 19, 2011), more minus than plus. I tried again today and the results did not advance Big Wong’s standing. I ordered shrimp omelet ($6.75), partly to see if this was a simple way to identify shrimp egg foo young, a dish that I have a weakness for. Well, shrimp omelet was precisely that, 7-8" round, probably 2 eggs beaten, five or so medium-sized shrimp, a few pieces of green onion, with a mound of white rice on the side. Nothing like anyone’s shrimp egg foo young, or even the shrimp and scrambled eggs at Mee Noodle Shop and Grill, 922 Second Avenue, which I haunted when I lived on the East Side for over 20 years. However, I applied soy sauce liberally and made all gone, since I was hungry. Seemingly not content to leave me mildly contented with a full belly, the waiter hustled me from my table in order to seat two people who just walked in. So, Big Wong’s getting littler each time.

Thursday, February 9, 2012
Ann’s Chinese Restaurant, 1 East Broadway, is the fourth restaurant at that famous address, although only a new sign in front and the health department inspection sticker in the window, dated January 3, 2102, identify it as such. In fact, signs outside and printed material inside still refer to the prior existence of both Accord Asian Cuisine and Yi Hao Chinese Restaurant. Fortunately, the Funhouse remains only as a dim memory (January 27, 2010).

Even with its new name, the restaurant is leaning more Japanese in decor and on the menu than Chinese these days, although the sushi chef was idle for the entire lunchtime. In fact, the staff outnumbered the patrons. I had a lunch special, all $6.45 including choice of rice or egg roll, soup or soda. I ordered sesame chicken, hot and sour soup and fried rice, none of which were worse than served at a neighborhood joint. The best part was the unadvertised 25% discount which brought the bill down to $5.41 including sales tax.

Friday, February 10, 2012
Tiny's & the Bar Upstairs, 135 West Broadway, is not an Asian restaurant, so it does not increase my count. However, it it interesting for several reasons and I will report my lunch there. One of its owner is Sean Avery, recently of the New York Rangers, consistently voted by his peers as the most hated man in hockey. Avery is the sort of player adored by fans when on their team, otherwise reviled for unusual conduct on and off the ice. Most recently, he made a public service announcement supporting gay marriage in New York just before the legislature voted on the subject. Another part owner is Henrik Lundqvist, the Rangers goalie and key to their league-leading season so far. Avery and Lundqvist were not on the premises when I entered the very appropriately named Tiny's. I should have phoned ahead. The restaurant occupies a space that I recall as a grubby novelty store, candy, newspapers, cigarettes, lottery tickets. While open less than a year, Tiny's appears to have been around forever with exposed brick walls, battered tin ceiling, a brick fireplace and funky stools that evoke places you are anxious to leave. However, the hostess gave me a warm greeting and told me that the only available space was upstairs where a party of 15 women were celebrating a birthday. Ever the risk taker I went upstairs and even managed to make progress on the crossword puzzle amid the soprano chirpings. I had the Cobb salad ($18), which had all fresh ingredients. The party girls and I co-existed quite well; they even offered me a glass of wine which I had to refuse because I still had an errand requiring some time on the New Jersey Turnpike. In all I was treated quite well for a guy not holding a stick in his hand.

Friday, February 3, 2012

Back to Work

Tuesday, January 31, 2012
I was back at work at the usual time this morning, although uncertain of how long I could sit upright. The first thing to work on was a matter that I had almost completed before taking off, so I was spared the need for original thinking or analysis. The only mental exercise I had this morning was deciding whether to eat Chinese, Vietnamese, Italian or American for my first lunch back. In honor of a successful trip, I chose Pho 88, 51 Bayard Street (April 18, 2011), a Vietnamese restaurant still in its first year. I had a big bowl of their house special Pho, beef noodle soup ($6.50), and fried shrimp dumplings ($4.75), not found on the menu. Both were excellent and served with tea at no extra cost, a practice unknown in Vietnam it seems.

Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Kam Man, 200 Canal Street, the Zabar’s of Chinatown, opened a food counter recently in the rear of its ground floor (December 22, 2011). I returned for sushi, possibly to balance China, Vietnam and Japan among Asia’s culinary superpowers. I had three rolls, spicy tuna, salmon skin and eel ($9). Everything was fresh, made to order and amply-sized, 8 pieces about one inch wide to a roll. Right now, Kam Man is offering some incentives, such as dumplings or a drink for a little extra. With the understanding that seating is only on stools at a busy narrow counter, Kam Man is a good choice for sushi.

Thursday, February 2, 2012
Sam’s Deli, 30 Mulberry Street, opened about one year ago with a few tables, but mostly serving people running in to take a sandwich back to their desk. It is the closest eatery to several courthouses according to whether you emerge from a front or back door. I’ve stopped in a dozen or so times for a decent hand-carved brisket sandwich. Today, as I was on the way to Mott Street, I noticed a menu pasted in Sam’s window. It listed Chinese dishes, mostly noodles, in addition to its sandwiches, so I went in and ordered Singapore chow fun, not technically on the menu, but doable as they offered Singapore mei fun and beef chow fun. The portion was very large ($6.50), the noodles too mushy, the curry taste almost indistinguishable, but I liked it. Maybe because the portion was very large.

Last night was the first time I shopped in Fairway since returning home. In the past 2 ½ weeks they made a noticeable change to the area around their bakery, they opened up space. This follows small gestures in other parts of the store to introduce some room in their fabled narrow aisles. I’m not sure that I approve. Offering comfort to claustrophobes and others who feared rubbing elbows, tuchases and other body parts with complete strangers was never a goal of mine.


Friday, February 3, 2012
Boaz, the Super Bowl Baby’s birthday. Appropriately enough, his party will be on Sunday when we hope Big Blue does it again. We are going to Massachusetts for the party and the game, equipped with Giants gear, otherwise unavailable within 100 miles of Boston, to outfit our boys.

I was apprehensive when I saw the sign in the window of 69 Bayard Restaurant on Tuesday that it was closed until February 3rd. As a New Yorker, I seen such signs announcing vacations or renovations as the mark of the Grim Reaper. Alternatively, I considered that 69 Bayard might take the occasion of the coming of the Year of the Dragon to redecorate, easily funded by the currency pasted to its walls. That would allow them to start fresh with bare walls awaiting the affixing of pictures of George, Abe and others. That thought made me regret using all my Dong before leaving Vietnam, thus unable to include Ho among other national leaders. Well, none of the above. The restaurant closed simply to give its staff well-deserved time off for the holiday.

While one waiter was a little slow refilling my tea cup, the chef seemed to benefit from the respite and produced shrimp egg foo young ($7.95) of a high grade.

Go Blue!