The second most famous person born in Madeira was John Dos Passos's grandfather, an unlikely lure for holiday seekers. How about Eli Manning International Airport, once known as Newark?
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In my experience, the ride from an airport is usually pretty dull, especially after a long, wearying international flight. Madeira is different. Unless you keep your eyes shut, you vividly encounter the island’s dramatic topography. It is very hilly, rising 6,300 feet at its highest point, with deep valleys cutting through. There are only rare stretches of flat ground or straight paths.
Photographers thrive, while those of us prone to vertigo squirm. It's exciting in any case.
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Our large, modern hotel is right at the Atlantic Ocean, designed to give every room an ocean view. Similar properties bracket it. It has all the amenities you might expect, indoor pool, outdoor pool, spa, several bars, lots of space to sprawl.
Our tour group consists of 5 men, all attached; 15 women, either attached to the men, attached to each other, attached to reluctant husbands at home, or unattached. All but one of us seems eligible for Social Security. They come from all over; no region predominates. The most popular hometown is not New York, but Rochester, that is if you combine Rochester, New York and Rochester, Minnesota. We had our first dinner together at the hotel, ordinary and unworthy of documenting except for the buffet dessert bar, which provided six delightful treats without exhausting the possibilities.
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We lunched together at a country villa, surrounded by vineyards. The setting was special, the food not, as I expect every group meal to be. Dessert was a very good passion fruit mousse, however. It is worth noting that every group lunch and dinner is accompanied by unlimited wine.
Afterwards,
we visited Museu da Baleia da Madeira, the Madeira Whale Museum.
Whaling was active on Madeira for only 45 years, succumbing to
international pressure in 1985. The museum presents a detailed,
non-judgemental examination of whaling. Whatever else, it was very hard
work.
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I was apprehensive about the next group activity, a ride on the Funchal cable car, rising 560 meters over a distance of 3,200 meters.
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This very busy day continued with a visit to the Madeira Botanical Garden, an 80,000 m2 park (nearly 20 acres), privately created, but open to the public. It was splendid. Madeira seems naturally conducive to vegetation and over 2,000 exotic species from around the world are thriving in this garden.
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At last a good meal, not a great meal, but a good meal. Indian Palace, Estrada Monumental 197, is one steep staircase above our hotel. Its 30 tables filled up before we finished. The menu was conventional and the prices were reasonable. I had the Indian Palace Biryani, a large serving, very tasty, containing chicken, lamb and shrimp, just slightly overcooked (€14.50). I drank a pint of local draft beer with it (€3.90). Madam had Palak Paneer, cubes of cheese in pureed spinach (€8.90). Worth a climb up the stairs.
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We drove up to nearly the highest point on the island, which requires acknowledgment of our driver who maneuvers our bus, twice as large as needed, up and down, in and out, around and about roads that combine the worst features of the Pacific Coast Highway and the Amalfi Coast.
From the dizzying heights, we went down to the seacoast for lunch next to the roaring surf. Dessert was vanilla ice cream over fresh fruit salad.
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We visited Quinta da Casa Branca, home to a British family that pioneered the wine trade. Consistent with its character, we had a traditional afternoon tea, little sandwiches, petit fours, scones, clotted cream, raspberry jam. Lady and Lord Kennington, our London friends, would have felt completely at home.
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We began the day with an interesting discussion of Madeiran economics, politics, educational and social issues. Much of it is a subset of Portugal’s with higher salaries and better weather.
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After a visit to Jardin do Lago, another lovely botanical garden, we got back to our hotel early and I not only had a nap, but I sat in a whirlpool bath for a bit, trying to loosen up some of my kinky limbs.
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Dinner tonight wasn't bad. I enjoyed my dessert, passion fruit mousse with ice cream, special order. I'm not writing up the group meals, because it's not what you would get walking in the door, for better or worse.
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We drove back up to a 1,400 meter peak for a nature walk that was compromised by steady rain, although it didn’t rain in the bus where I sat reading a Parker novel by Donald Westlake writing as Richard Stark.
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Madam and I had lunch on our own at il Basílico, Rua de Leichlingen 9, an Italian restaurant feet from the Atlantic Ocean. We sat outside where it was sunny and mild, a dramatic contrast from the morning’s rain and wind. I had the Vesuvio pizza, mozzarella, pepperoni, anchovies, black olives, capers (€18), very much worth it.
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The group’s farewell dinner was at Restaurante Goya, Rua Simplício dos Passos Gouveia, a relatively posh place. The meal almost transcended being prepared in bulk. We started with spinach ravioli in a garlicky cream sauce. I had a roasted duck quarter, leg and thigh, with little fat or waste. Dessert seemed a mix of the inevitable passion fruit mousse and tiramisu. Definitely a good ending to our holiday.
Photo credits - Carolyn Berge
€1 = $1.08
Sounds like a great trip and i am amazed at your technical abilities to send the blog and with pictures. wwowowo...enjoy and return safely .
ReplyDeleteSounds like a pleasant trip, if less exciting than your usual romps. No national foods?
ReplyDelete